Thursday, December 29, 2011

Proton P3-21A Spotted

Wednesday, December 28, 2011

1,055 buah kereta Honda dimusnahkan

SEJUMLAH kereta Honda yang rosak akibat banjir menunggu untuk dimusnahkan di sebuah loji kereta syarikat tersebut di wilayah Ayutthaya, tengah Thailand semalam.
BANGKOK - Pembuat kereta No.1 Jepun, Honda mula memusnahkan sebanyak 1,055 buah kereta buatannya di Thailand semalam.
Tindakan itu dilakukan bagi meyakinkan para pelanggan bahawa tiada kenderaan yang rosak akibat banjir di negara berkenaan dijual kepada mereka.
Honda dalam satu kenyataan memberitahu, proses memusnahkan semua kenderaan di kilang Honda di tengah wilayah Ayutthaya itu dijangka mengambil masa selama sebulan.
Kilang Honda terletak di Taman Industri Rojanam yang merupakan kawasan yang ditenggelami air pada awal Oktober lalu.
Bencana berkenaan menyebabkan pengeluaran kilang tersebut terpaksa dihentikan manakala gambar-gambar dari udara menunjukkan ratusan buah kereta Honda digenangi air berselut.
"Walaupun kami dapat memindahkan banyak kereta baharu ke kawasan selamat, sejumlah kereta yang ada di kilang ini rosak akibat banjir," kata Timbalan Presiden Eksekutif Honda Automobile Thailand, Pitak Pruittisarikorn.
"Kami tidak menjual kereta yang rosak ini kepada pelanggan, menjual atau mengguna semula sebarang bahagian kenderaan tersebut," tambahnya.
Kebanyakan kereta yang akan dimusnahkan merupakan model kereta sedan saiz pertengahan seperti Honda City, Honda Brio dan Honda Jazz.
Lebih 700 orang terkorban dalam banjir yang menjejaskan 65 daripada 77 wilayah yang terletak di kawasan rendah di Thailand sejak beberapa bulan lalu.
Banjir tersebut turut menyebabkan tujuh taman industri utama terpaksa ditutup sekali gus mengganggu rangkaian bekalan global. - AFP


All Info and Q&A about Engine Overheating

Overheats when in heavy traffic or after extended idling

Low coolant level
Bad radiator cap
Bad thermostat
Radiator fan not coming on
Failed head gasket
Water pump impeller corroded 

Overheats when driving at speed, or on repeated heavy acceleration

Radiator and/or block internally clogged with rust, scale, silt, gel, or externally blocked with road debris
Bad radiator cap
Bad thermostat
Radiator fins corroded and falling off
Water pump impeller corroded
Lower radiator hose collapsing 

Overheats immediately after coming off highway

Radiator fan not coming on 
Bad thermostat

Overheats anytime, or erratically

Low coolant level
Bad radiator cap
Bad thermostat
Electrical problem with gauge temperature sender or associated wiring
Radiator fan not coming on 

Overheats seconds after the car is started

Electrical problem with gauge temperature sender or associated wiring

Seems to run slightly too hot all the time, gauge sometimes nears the red zone

Radiator and/or block internally clogged with rust, scale, silt, gel, or externally blocked with road debris
Bad radiator cap
Bad thermostat
Radiator fins corroded and falling off
Lower radiator hose collapsing
Radiator fan not coming on 

Bubbles in coolant expansion reservoir

Bad radiator cap
Failed head gasket
Failed water pump seal admitting air from suction side 

Air in radiator, but expansion reservoir full

Coolant leak
Too much air in system after fluid change
Bad radiator cap
Bad seal between radiator cap and expansion reservoir
Failed head gasket 

Low coolant level

Can be caused by many, many things. Among them,
Failed head gasket
Worn water pump seals
Lack of maintenance
Hoses leaking
Radiator core leaking
Radiator upper tank cracked

If the coolant is allowed to get low, the water pump can't circulate it through the radiator at idle, so heat cannot be removed. Normally the pump can circulate even low coolant if the pump spins fast enough, so a low coolant level generally will not cause overheating at speed.

If the low coolant level is accompanied by an expansion reservoir level that's much higher than normal, your rad cap or head gasket is suspect.

Age, or the use of inexpensive silicated coolants will wear the water pump seals rapidly, causing premature leakage.

The water pump has a small "weep hole" in it, and a noticeable drop in coolant level over several months is normal. You need to keep an eye on the level and top it up once in a while.

Air in the system is very bad. Your cooling system is meant to operate with all parts and surfaces completely immersed in coolant, as that's how the anti-corrosion properties of the coolant work. Air equals corrosion. Also, with air in it, the system cannot be pressurized, which is one way boiling is controlled. Boiling (or vaporization of the coolant) is just as bad as a low level.

If the engine starts to overheat at idle, or in heavy traffic, and the gauge goes down when you rev it, the coolant is probably low. Best to check.

Radiator or block internally clogged with rust, scale, silt, gel, or externally blocked with road debris

The radiator is the engine's main heat exchanger. Unless coolant can pass freely through it at the speed the water pump and thermostat want to push it, it can't get rid of the heat it needs to get rid of, and deposits prevent fluid movement.

Any deposits at all in the radiator are bad and are caused by one of more of the following:
Incorrect coolant
Mixing incompatible coolants
Old, corrosive coolant
Use of tap water to mix with aftermarket coolants
When you pull the rad cap off and shine a flashlight inside, the coolant should be transparent (plus whatever color it was 

when put in), and the fins should be clearly visible.

If the fluid is murky, brown, smells like rubber, goopy, or if the fins have white, crusty deposits on them, you've got circulation problems, and likely corrosion problems inside the engine.

Old coolant gets acidic and corrosive, and will eat all sorts of internal parts, from your head gasket to the water pump impeller. It also cannot carry heat as effectively as fresh coolant.

Inexpensive silicated coolants (the cloudy stuff) can cause silt to build up in the engine's water jacket as well as the rad, providing an impediment to free flow of coolant. Honda emphatically recommends that you use their coolant and no other in their cars.

Coolant should be changed every two years with a non-silicate, non-borate type. Long-Life coolant is supposed to be good for five years, but I've never personally been comfortable with that. I change mine every two years or less.

Mixing coolants of different formulations can destroy the corrosion-inhibitors, leaidng to rapid corrosion, water pump, thermostat and radiator failure, as well as head gasket problems.

A radiator problem peculiar to Northern regions is external corrosion of the fins. This is caused by winter and road salt, and reduces the fins to a white powder. The fins then crumble and fall off, and once they do, that section of the radiator cannot exchange heat with the outside air. Run your hand gently over the fins at the middle of the rad's core, at the very bottom, under the bumper. If they're crumbly, you'll know.

Warmer areas may suffer from sand, pine needles and other debris embedded in the lower half of the rad, which prevent air movement through the rad and thus impair heat exchanging. 

Bad radiator cap

The radiator cap does several things. It seals the system against the outside world (main seal function) keeps the system pressurized when needed, so as to raise the boiling point of the coolant allows excess pressure and coolant expansion to vent to the expansion reservoir (pressure seal function) allows coolant to return to the radiator when the engine cools down (return seal function)

As you may have gathered from the above section, the radiator cap has three seals, any of which may fail independently of the others:

The main seal is the one that seals the cap against the top of the filler neck. Just a rubber gasket that operates just like one on the lid of a pickle jar. Simple and reliable.

A failed pressure seal will allow the coolant to boil at a lower temperature, and coolant will be able to travel freely and foamily to the expansion reservoir. This will cause localized hot-spots inside the engine, which can lead to premature head warpage, and may hasten head gasket failure. It will also cause the rad coolant level to be low, just like a failed head gasket.

A failed return seal will prevent the coolant from returning to the radiator as the rad cools off, causing a vacuum that can collapse the radiator's hoses. This will prevent the coolant from circulating if the hoses don't re-expand as the engine warms up.

A bad rad cap can cause similar symptoms to a failed head gasket, so it's a cheap first step to try before bringing it in. 

If you replace the rad cap and you still have bubbles in the coolant (or foam in the reservoir), then suspect the head gasket.

If the engine starts to overheat at idle, or in heavy traffic, and the gauge goes down when you rev it, the coolant is probably low.

Moreover, a neglected cooling system can load up the cap with crud and corrosion, preventing proper coolant flow in and out through it. Peel the seals back with your fingernail to check for goop. If you find any, a blast with a garden hose and probing with a toothpick should clear most of it out.

But anyway, a new rad cap is less than $20. Make a habit to change it every 5 years, just in case. It's pretty important.

Bad thermostat

This part is the traffic cop that controls when the coolant is allowed to circulate and when it isn't. It's the device that's meant to quickly allow the engine to warm up to its design temperature, but no hotter than that.

Thermostats can stick shut or open, get lazy, or fail to open at the correct temperature. Depending on how and when they fail, they will cause either overheating or underheating. Overheating usually happens when the thermostat fails to open, or fails to open enough. If it fails to close, the engine will run too cool, causing all sorts of other problems.

A cooling system full of rust, scale, silt, or gel will interfere with the thermostat's operation, causing even more cooling problems. Gunk can plug up the thermostat, causing overheating, or make it stick open, causing underheating. 

Incorrect installation of the thermostat (can be done, even by professionals!) will also interfere with thermostat operation.

Normally mounted in the top of the lower rad hose in modern cars, the thermostat senses engine heat in the coolant. It is supposed to open up when the coolant in the block has warmed up enough, allow the cooled coolant in the rad to flow into the block, pushing the hot coolant from the block into the rad.

When the thermostat is closed, a small bypass hose allows coolant to circulate through the engine block, around the business end of the thermostat, through the water pump, and back around again. This keeps block temperature even, and helps the thermostat warm up as well. Once the thermostat opens, the bypass is closed off by means of a special extension on the bottom of the thermostat.

Aftermarket thermostats are highly associated with overheating and underheating. Most car require 78C (172F) thermostats (that's the opening temperature). Too many aftermarket thermostats are wrongly rated for your car and are poorly made. 

Your emissions system may not work correctly with a different rating installed. In addition, some aftermarket units lack a bleed hole, the absence of which can trap air and lead to overheating.

Changing it every 5 years is excellent preventative maintenance.

Electric fan not coming on

The engine's heat is removed from the coolant through the radiator. When you drive, the motion of your car is enough to push sufficient air through the radiator to effect proper cooling, but when you are stopped, or moving slowly in heavy traffic, your radiator needs help. This is what the fan does: It pulls air through the rad when the rad isn't moving.

The problem is that, in order to work, it needs to be turned on. There are various fuses, sensors, switches, relays, and several yards of wiring and connections concerned with turning the fan on, and they do go bad. The fan motor itself is very robust, and rarely goes bad.

The fan switch is immersed in coolant. When the coolant gets hot enough, the switch closes, and grounds either the fan itself, or a relay, which then provides power to the fan.

In some cars, if the coolant in the rad is too low, the fan switch may not be fully immersed in coolant and would thus sense a false temperature and not switch the fan on. Some cars have the fan switch deep at the bottom of the cooling jacket, others have it higher up. Higher up is more prone to this issue. Keep in mind that all but the very newest caruse two Wiring and connectors on older cars begin to corrode and break down, which cause their own headaches.

Older car, have no relay for the fan switch. The switch simply grounds the fan, allowing current to flow, and the fan to come on. (The fan itself still has a relay though.)

Newer car use a relay to help insulate the switch from having to carry the full current that the fan's drawing. The idea is to help the switch last longer, but the downside is a bit more complexity and more parts to fail.

Failed head gasket

When the gasket goes, typically the first thing that happens is that combustion chamber gases are pumped into the water jacket. You will see this as bubbles in the expansion reservoir. This will quickly lead to low coolant level in the engine, and overheating at idle, even if the fan comes on, since the water pump can't move the coolant around properly any more.

If the engine starts to overheat at idle, or in heavy traffic, and the gauge goes down when you rev it, the coolant is low.

The symptoms are similar to a failed rad cap. If you top up the rad, replace the rad cap and the problem persists, the head gasket is definitely questionable. To confirm this, a garage can apply a pressure test (NOT a "compression test"), where air is blown into each cylinder in turn until the technician sees bubbles in the radiator. If no bubbles are seen, the problem is elsewhere, such as an external leak.

This can be accompanied by an expansion reservoir level that is much higher than normal, and which does not go down once the engine cools off.

If you choose to simply add fluid and ignore the issue, eventually oil and coolant will begin mixing together, and coolant will get sucked into the combustion chamber. Ignoring this is a good way to toast a perfectly good engine. Get it fixed early and there will be no further issues.

Bad seal between radiator cap and expansion reservoir, or too much air in system after fluid change

When coolant expands, it needs to go someplace temporarily so it doesn't burst hoses or blow the rad. The expansion reservoir is where it goes.

The fluid pushes out of the pressure seal in the rad cap, and travels down the skinny rubber hose at the filler neck to the expansion reservoir.

As the engine cools off after you shut it down, the return seal in the cap opens up, and the coolant is sucked back in through that same rubber hose.

If the reservoir has run dry, the amount pushed out may not be sufficient to cover the bottom of the reservoir's intake pipe, leaving the system unable to pull the coolant back in, so you'll end up with air in the rad, and resulting loss of pressure. If the rubber hose is disconnected or split, the expanded coolant may end up on the road instead of the in the reservoir, leading to the same situation. And air in your rad is a bad thing.

If you've just changed the coolant, there will be some air trapped that will work its way loose back to the upper radiator tank. If there is a lot, there will be too much for the expanded coolant to push all the way into the reservoir. What this means is you'll have a situation similar to that immediately above, where the engine will be unable to suck in coolant from the reservoir. When you change the coolant, take the car for a drive after. Let it cool down, then check the rad for air. Top it off, do the same thing the morning after the next drive, and you should be OK from then on.

Regular checks of your coolant level, both in the expansuion tank and the rad, are important in any case. 

Lower radiator hose collapsed

If you're using genuine hoses, you'll never see this problem unless your rad cap has gone bad and won't allow coolant back into the engine.

When the water pump is turning, it's sucking water through the thermostat and the lower rad hose. That suction can cause the same sort of hose collapse as you get in a drinking straw when you try to suck a thick milkshake through it. If the hose is insufficiently reinforced on the inside, it can get sucked flat and coolant flow will stop. When you let off the pedal or shut the car off, the hose pops back to normal. If you use aftermarket hoses, not all of them will be of high quality, and may be prone to this phenomenon.

To check for this, rev the car hard with your hand on the throttle in the engine compartment, and watch the lower hose. If it doesn't collapse, it's probably fine. 

This can also happen as the car cools off, if the rad cap return seal has gone bad. 

Water pump impeller corroded

The only time you'll ever see this is if

you're using a low-quality aftermarket water pump, or
you've mixed incompatible coolants, or
the coolant has never, ever been changed.
If the impeller is gone or much reduced in size, coolant can't be pumped into and out of the rad, so it will boil and overheat.


Real Transformer

Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Kancil 4X4

Ini adalah salah satu modifikasi yang agak menarik yang dilakukan terhadap Perodua Kancil. Modifikasi yang dilakukan agak kemas dan tidak kelihatan janggal kerana hampir menyerupai kenderaan pikup 4x4.


Tip Penjagaan 'Windscreen' Kereta

Memandangkan sekarang sudah tiba musim hujan, penglihatan pemandu pada waktu hujan boleh menjadi terhad disebabkan oleh 'windscreen' atau cermin hadapan kereta yang tidak dijaga. Ramai yang tidak tahu penglihatan yang kabur semasa hujan bukan saja disebabkan oleh getah 'wiper' yang sudah keras tetapi boleh juga disebabkan oleh debu-debu halus yang melekat di permukaan 'windscreen' menjadikan permukaannya terasa kasar.
Contoh cermin hadapan yang kabur. Sumber: Google Images
Jika ini terjadi di kereta anda, apa yang anda perlukan hanyalah 'rain repellent' untuk membersihkan cermin hadapan anda dan ia akan bertindak sebagai satu lapisan kalis air supaya air tidak melekat di cermin hadapan anda. Harga sebotol dalam sekitar RM6-RM8 bergantung kepada saiz dan jenama.

Perbezaan setelah menggunakan 'rain repellent'. Sumber: Google Images
Cara penggunaanya amat mudah, anda hanya perlukan titiskan 'rain repellent' ke atas cermin hadapan dan sapu rata dengan menggunakan tisu bersih selepas anda membasuh kereta. Anda boleh ulang semula bila cermin hadapan anda sudah mula kabur.

Sunday, December 18, 2011

Thursday, December 15, 2011

Drift Car Passenger

Coke and Mentos Rocket Car

Lagi Gambar Proton Makeover No.2 Proton Wira

Nampaknya proses makeover oleh R3 keatas Proton wira milik Sashideran Radha Krishnan berjalan dengan lancar dan hampir siap. Kemasan kulit di atas 'dashboard' amat menarik dengan jahitan warna biru sesuai dengan penampilan warna kereta. Saya rasa pihak R3 membuat kerja yang bagus dalam menaik taraf kereta lama seperti baharu.


Monday, December 12, 2011

Parallel Parking

Proton Exora Bold CFE

Ini adalah beberapa gambar Proton Exora Bold CFE atau Proton Exora turbo yang tersebar di internet sejak akhir-akhir ini dan sering mendapat perhatian para pelayari internet mengenai model baru ini. Pelancaran model ini mungkin dalam masa terdekat kerana model 'test drive' atau model pandu uji telah mula dihantar ke setiap showroom.

Enjin Proton Exora Bold CFE


Saturday, December 10, 2011

Proton Tawar Pemasangan Tali Pinggang Percuma Bagi Saga LMST Dan Gen.2

KUALA LUMPUR, 9 Dis (Bernama) -- Proton Holdings Bhd menawarkan pemasangan percuma tali pinggang belakang bagi model Saga LMST dan Gen.2 yang dikeluarkan antara tahun 2004 dan 2008 yang mana proses pemasangan hanya mengambil masa 30 minit bagi sebuah kenderaan.

Proton dalam satu kenyataan Jumaat berkata syarikat itu menyediakan Mobile Team sebagai sebahagian daripada Kempen Tali Pinggang Belakang bagi membantu pemilik kereta mematuhi arahan kerajaan berkaitan alat keselamatan bermula tahun depan.

Bersempena dengan kempen selama sebulan itu, Mobile Team akan dihantar ke kedai kereta terpakai di Lembah Klang dan kemudiannya tentera dan balai polis di seluruh negara, pejabat kerajaan dan universiti awam lewat bulan ini.

Setakat ini, unit Mobile team itu yang terdiri daripada lapan pasukan dengan empat anggota, telah memasang tali pinggang belakang di lebih 700 kereta sejak dilancarkan pada 5 Dis.

"Kami akan berusaha sedaya upaya untuk menyediakan perkhidmatan kepada pelanggan kami," kata Pengarah Urusan Kumpulan Datuk Seri Syed Zainal Abidin Syed Mohamed Tahir.

Beliau berkata penyelidikan global menunjukkan penggunaan tali pinggang belakang mengurangkan risiko kecederaan kepala sebanyak 47 peratus dan abdomen 52 peratus sekiranya berlaku pelanggaran bahagian hadapan.

Friday, December 9, 2011

Honda CR-Z terima 300 tempahan

KUALA LUMPUR 8 Dis. - Model kereta jenama Honda, CR-Z telah menerima 300 tempahan dalam tempoh sebulan sejak pelancarannya awal bulan lepas.

Pengarah Urusan dan Ketua Pegawai Eksekutif Honda Malaysia, Yoichiro Ueno berkata, pihaknya gembira dengan sambutan terhadap model hibrid ketiga di bawa masuk ke negara ini.

"Bagi mengekalkan komitmen kami kepada pasaran, syarikat akan membawa masuk tiga warna baharu model itu yang dijangka berada di pasaran awal tahun depan," katanya dalam satu kenyataan di sini, hari ini.

Tambah Ueno, tiga warna tersebut ialah Kelabu Metalik, Merah Milano dan Hitam Permata.

Semasa pelancarannya, model CR-Z dijangka terjual sebanyak 100 unit menjelang akhir tahun ini.

Beliau juga yakin dengan potensi kenderaan yang mempunyai nilai mesra alam, lebih-lebih lagi selepas kerajaan memperkenalkan pengecualian penuh ke atas duti import dan eksais bagi kenderaan hibrid sehingga Disember 2013.

Pelanggan boleh melakukan tempahan bagi tiga warna tersebut mulai esok di mana harganya bernilai RM115,000 seunit yang disertakan lima tahun jaminan ke atas bateri atau 140,000 kilometer perjalanan, yang mana dahulu.

Orang ramai boleh menguji pandu atau melihat model tersebut di mana-mana kedai pameran Honda.


Myvi 1.5 SE Terbakar

Kereta keluaran terbaru Perodua, Perodua Myvi SE 1.5 telah terbakar dipercayai setelah terbabit dalam kemalangan. Sejak akhir-akhir ini, kereta yang terlibat dalam kemalangan tidak kira sama ada kereta baru atau kereta lama kebanyakan akan terbakar. Apakah punca kereta mudah terbakar?

Monday, December 5, 2011

How to Check Your Timing Belt

How to Check Your Timing Belt -- powered by ehow

Tahniah Proton

Penglibatan Proton dalam APRC tidak sia-sia walaupun menelan belanja yang besar. Kejayaan ini sekaligus akan mengangkat nama Proton di mata dunia supaya setanding dengan nama-nama besar dalam dunia automotif. Apa yang kita harapkan agar Proton dapat menghasilkan kereta yang lebih baik untuk rakyat Malaysia.


Sunday, December 4, 2011

Projek DIY Hujung Minggu

Pada minggu ini, saya berkesempatan untuk membelek kereta Proton Saga 8v saya yang telah lama terabai. Untuk minggu ini, saya hanya sempat untuk menukar hanya 3 barang yang telah rosak di kereta saya iaitu:

1. Side mirror (Left)
2. Bumper Lamp aka Lampu signal dekat bumper (Left)
3. Wiper Link
4. Cuci karburater dengan cleaner

Berikut adalah senarai harga barang2 diatas sebagai perbandingan agar dapat digunakan sebagai rujukan jika ingin membeli barang2 diatas. Lokasi adalah di Melaka. Harga mungkin berbeza mengikut tempat sama ada lebih murah atau lebih mahal.

1. Side mirror (Left)                                                                  RM30
2. Bumper Lamp aka Lampu signal dekat bumper (Left)            RM12
3. Wiper Link                                                                           RM38
4. Carburator cleaner                                                                RM14

                                                                           JUMLAH :    RM94

Saya tidak dapat menunjukkan gambar-gambar semasa proses diy dilakukan kerana tidak mempunyai kamera mahupun hp kamera. Mungkin diy lain kali akan saya usahakan untuk paparkan gambar.

Saturday, December 3, 2011

Tokyo Drift Style Drifting

300zx drifting like in the movie Tokyo Drift.

Friday, December 2, 2011

Tokyo Drift Deleted Scene - Where's My Fizz?

This is one of the scene that i think should be in the movie.

Car Talk With Sung Kang

This guy is very funny. Enjoy the video.I am still laughing....ha..ha..ha..

Thursday, December 1, 2011

Daigo Saito's Altezza

Proton Perkenal Saga Baru, Proton Saga FLX SE


KUALA LUMPUR: Dalam usaha mengembangkan rangkaian model Saga, PROTON Holdings Bhd hari ini memperkenalkan kemasukan baru variasi Saga, Saga FLX SE, yang telah bersedia untuk menarik generasi muda di kalangan pembeli kereta. Berharga RM49,449 dan digerakkan oleh enjin 1.6 liter Campro Intake Air-Fuel Module (IAFM), Saga FLX SE bertujuan memberikan pemilik kereta dengan prestasi yang lebih dan penjimatan dari segi pengunaan bahan bakar.

"Ia mengesahkan lagi Saga sebagai kereta pilihan ramai kerana kemampuan yang luar biasa dan nilai wang yang termasuklah penjimatan bahan bakar yang lebih baik, prestasi yang hebat dan pemanduan dan pengemudian yang cemerlang," kata pengarah urusan kumpulan itu, Datuk Seri Syed Zainal Abidin Syed Mohamed Tahir dalam satu kenyataan hari ini.

PROTON berkata, kombinasi enjin 1.6-liter Campro IAFM dengan transmisi automatik transmisi boleh laras berterusan (CVT) memberikan antaranya pengurangan penggunaan bahan bakar dengan tambahan empat peratus berbanding dengan Saga 1.6 liter pada masa ini.

Berharga RM2,900 lebih tinggi daripada Saga FL automatik 1.6 liter pada masa ini, Saga FLX SE mengetengahkan perubahan lapan hiasan luaran dan tiga hiasan dalaman.
Syarikat itu berkata, sejak Saga dilancarkan pada Januari 2008, kini terdapat 274,469 unit Saga di jalan raya dengan PROTON menerima kira-kira 331,768 tempahan.

Saga terus kekal sebagai model jualan terbaik Proton setakat ini dengan purata 6,500 unit dijual setiap bulan.

PROTON mensasarkan menjual kira-kira 78,752 unit Saga dalam tahun kewangan semasanya yang berakhir 31 Mac 2012, di mana ia menjangkakan Saga FLX SE yang baru ini dijual di rantau ini sebanyak 500 unit sebulan.

Boleh diperolehi dalam dua warna pilihan; Putih dan Merah. Bagi Saga FLX SE didatangkan dengan jaminan tiga tahun atau 100,000km, yang mana terdahulu.

PROTON juga berkata, pengguna yang menempah Saga dan masih menantikan penghantaran boleh memilih untuk menukar tempahan mereka untuk mendapatkan Saga FLX SE di bilik pameran yang mereka buat tempahan.

Pembeli boleh melihat model baru ini di semua bilik pameran PROTON mulai esok. - BERNAMA


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